St Paul de Vence

 St Paul de Vence

We set out from Derek and Arlette's in Vence to visit nearby St Paul de Vence. We headed into the centre of the new part of the town and followed a road towards St Paul, soon turning right at the 17th century church of Notre Dame de la Pitie (known as for some reason as Sainte-Anne).

Soon a leafy garden wall presented an opportunity for a bit of butterfly spotting and this Silver-washed Fritillary (Argynnis paphia) obligingly posed for a picture.

In English all the numerous Fritillaries are called something-or-other Fritillary, but my newly acquired Papillons de France by Tristan Lefranchis reveals that French names for these species are much more diverse. The Silver-washed is known in French as the Tabac d'Espagne, Spanish Tobacco. I found a splendid French website What is that animal which explains that the name comes from a supposed resemblance of the colour of the butterfly to that of tobacco produced in the Royal Tobacco factory of Seville (shades of Carmen). I am looking forward to exploring the French mindset on naming.

We left the road and headed downhill along a track, passing a barrier that warned that the risk of forest fires meant that we continued at our own peril. At the bottom of quite a steep descent we crossed the dry bed of a stream ...

... and continued uphill to emerge on a road on high ground which soon offered wonderful views over tiled roofs.

As we approached the town a friendly local pointed us towards a track running parallel to the road which gave us a much more pleasant approach. It also offered the view of St Paul at the head of this post.

We headed into the old walled town alongside the walls ...

... and through the narrow gateway.

Just off to the left was the excellent Le Tilleul restaurant where we had a very good light lunch. We enjoyed the view and this lovely statue of a horse made out of horse shoes.

Of course there is really only one thing to do in a walled town and that is to do a circuit of the walls. So after lunch we headed off to do that in an anti-clockwise direction. Soon the surprisingly high walls were revealed.

And at the first bastion there was a wonderful statue of an angel looking south towards the sea.

Further round there was a great view in the direction of Vence and the series of rocky outcrops known as baoux in French.

The circuit was a great delight and not too populous either. When we returned to the main gate we headed up the main street which was rather more crowded and touristy. The shops were mostly art galleries or souvenir shops. The old fountain was a pleasure though.

We headed ever upwards, away from the crowds, to find the former donjon where Derek and Arlette got married all those years ago, which was pleasingly nostalgic.

After passing the church we headed back down to the main gate, exited the old town and were lucky to find a bus back to Vence after a short wait.

Conditons: warm and sunny.

Distance: about 5 miles in all.

Rating: four and a half stars. A lovely afternoon out, so long as you go beyond St Paul's main street.