Monday 24 June 2019

Greece: Delphi


The Temple of Apollo

We are in Greece on a butterfly spotting holiday, but this morning we are taking time out from that to visit the famous site of Delphi, where there was a celebrated Oracle (the Pythia, who became ecstatic and prophesied as the voice of the god Apollo) and where the Pythian Games were held.

Our first impression on entering is of the site stretching uphill - it's not clear how far or what's up there.


We started to climb up the Sacred Way and at the first level there were the remains of several structures whose original purpose was unclear: they were perhaps Treasuries. The brickwork and truncated columns were very atmospheric.


The first unambiguous sight was the Athenian Treasury which dates from about 500 BC. It was used to house offerings to the god Apollo. It was restored in 1903-06 and in 2004 and gives a clear idea of what such a structure looked like. It employs the Doric order and the metopes, the decorative panels which run under the roof line, illustrate the exploits of the great heroes Heracles and Theseus.


Close by is the Rock of the Sibyl, by tradition the place where the first Sibyl delivered her prophesies.
 

Immediately adjacent are two fascinating structures. The first is a 2015 replica of the Tripod of the Plataeans which commemorated a naval victory over the Persians at Plataea in 479 BC. The original was moved to Constantinople by Constantine the Great in 324 AD.


Beside it is the pedestal of the statue of Aemilius Paulus, a Roman Consul who defeated the king of Macedon in 168 BC.


Now we approached the remaining columns of the large Temple of Apollo which dates from the 4th century BC.


A steep climb above the temple leads to the Theatre, completed in the second century BC and with a capacity of 5000.


This is the even more dramatic view of the Theatre seen from above.


We continued to climb and eventually reached the astonishing Stadium located right at the top of the site, built of stone and 177.5m in length. There was seating for 6,500 spectators.


Above is the finishing line, while below is the remains of the three-arched entrance.


At length we headed back downhill. On the way I enjoyed this wooded area which put me in mind of the paintings of Paul Cézanne.


As we returned past the Temple of Apollo, we were forcefully struck by the Polygonal Wall which stabilises the huge terrace upon which the Temple of Apollo sits.


Conditions: hot and sunny.

Rating: five stars. Simply magnificent.

Note: Much of the information in this post comes from helpful information panels scattered around the site. Additional information is from Greek sanctuaries and temple architecture by Mary Emerson. Not an easy read, but a very comprehensive and informative source.

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