St Petersburg: Around the Neva

Admiralty

Yesterday we walked around the historic heart of St Petersburg. Today we decided to cross the Neva river and explore some of the islands (all connected by road bridges) to its north. We began at the park in front of the Admiralty building, the headquarters of the Russian navy from 1711 to 1917. The golden spire is a landmark from all directions, but is in fact painted wood. The building is now a naval college.

From here it is a few steps to the beginning of Nevsky pr at the side of Dvortovskaya pl (Palace Sq). We turned left and crossed the bridge to Vassilievsky island. As you look back, there are wonderful views of the Winter Palace.


And as you look ahead to the left you see the Kunstcamera, the museum of Anthropology and Ethnography, founded by Peter the Great himself in 1714.



We just skirted the corner of Vassilievsky island, crossed to Petrogradsky island and then to Zayachy island, where the St Peter and Paul fortress was our target. It was here that the city of St Petersburg began. The fortress walls, built in 1703, were its first defences and the fortress is naturally the oldest major building in the city.

We followed the side of the island nearest the Neva river and soon found ourselves walking under the fortress walls. On turning a corner however we were surprised to come on a beach, complete with a few sunbathers.



A bit further on, we entered the riverside gate of the fortress and walked on top of part of the walls. We then made our way to the central square in front of the resplendent St Peter and Paul cathedral.



The 122m high bell tower is still the tallest structure in St Petersburg. The cathedral itself has an extravagant - OK, completely over the top - gilded baroque interior. Most of the Tsars are buried in the cathedral.

From here a delightful tree lined avenue leads past the Ducal chapel to the main east gate where you cross back to Petrogradsky island.




Here we made a bit of a mistake and walked some distance up the main boulevard in a largely futile search for more style moderne gems to add to those we saw yesterday. We then crossed the Neva again to return to the historic heart and seek a place to rest in the Summer Garden, with the Fontanka river on one side and a canal on the other.

The 18th century Garden was Peter's retreat and housed his first Palace - the relatively restrained Summer Palace, which dates from 1704-14.




The entrance to the garden facing the Neva is distinguished by a late 18th century cast iron fence between granite posts.




Inside the Garden is an oasis of green ...



... but happily there is also a bar.

We left by the southern exit and followed the Moyka river back into the historic heart.

Rating: four stars. Actually more enjoyable than the historic heart walk: more open, less bustle and traffic. The "Venice of the north" claim seemed much better founded.