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Friday, 20 April 2018

Barcelona: Casa Mila (La Pedrera)

Casa Milà 

This was Gaudí's last residential building, built for Pere Milà and his wife Rosario Segimòn in 1906-10. It's nickname, La Pedrera means The Quarry, a comment on its revolutionary facade.

It is not obvious until you go inside, but it consists of two courtyards. Here is the initial view upwards: note the characteristic metal decorations under the windows.


You walk through into the second, smaller courtyard and there is a wonderful view of the main gate from the inside and a lovely surprise in the beautiful impressionistic frescoes on the ceiling.


The tour route first involves a lift ride up to the roof. These extraordinary shapes are actually functional (ventilation outlets and exits from the lift or stairs), but they look like ancient warriors or something out of Game of Thrones.



The next port of call is the attic with its wonderful caternary arches made of orange brick. Apparently at some point in the building's history the attic was converted to additional dwellings, but these were removed by the current owners, the Caixa Catalunya Foundation.


Now you go down by lift or stairs to see the one apartment which is not occupied by permanent residents. It is sinuous space winding around the courtyard with rooms flowing into each other. The decoration has floral and curvy motifs in a uniform style, but there is  a surprising lack of colour. I found it rather anemic.


Back on the ground floor, the tour ends with another section of frescoed ceiling, even more beautiful than what we saw at the start.


Location: Passeig de Gràcia, 92

Rating: five stars.

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