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Saturday, 3 August 2013

River Erme to Noss Mayo (South West Coast Path 37)

Meadowsfoot Beach and Fernycombe Point

Back in Devon to resume walking along the Coast Path. If all goes well, we will finish the coast of South Devon on this trip. We start on the west bank of the river Erme, near to Mothecombe. After a section of woodland we emerge at Meadowsfoot Beach. It is damp and grey, but some sort of beach party is quietly underway.

We climb up the steps and soon have a nice view across the estuary as the tide comes in.


The path now passes below a grassy hillside, spotted with bright blue flowers on a woody stem.


It turns out that this is chicory. As we turned the corner of the estuary the route followed grassy cliffs, with a rocky shoreline below. As we entered a cornfield, three landmarks stretched out ahead: St Anchorite's Rock,  Beacon Hill (with the remains of a building, perhaps a chapel) and Stoke Down.


St Anchorite's rock seems to be a rather fanciful piece of naming. An anchorite is of course just a hermit: I don't believe there was a St Anchorite.

A bit further on there was a great view back towards Bolt Tail on the horizon, with Burgh Island still visible just in front of it.


We were just making the short but steep climb up to Beacon Hill when the forecast rain began in earnest. The next section followed a high line above the caravan parks by Stoke Beach and then emerged onto a largely level track above a series of downs. This is the former carriage drive built by Edward Baring (of the banking family), later Lord Revelstoke, the lord of the manor of Noss Mayo. It provided winter employment for local fisherman and allowed him to take his guests for a scenic ride around his estate. The rain had now abated, although it was too gloomy for photography, and the carriage drive made for excellent walking.

At length we reached the estuary of the River Yealm, with the Great Mew Stone out to sea.
old carriage drive to its advantage.  It was built in the 1800s for the Lord of the Manor at Noss Mayo, Edward Baring of the banking family who became Lord Revelstoke.  Its building provided winter employment for local fishermen and, when completed, allowed Lord Revelstoke to take distinguished guests on a superbly panoramic carriage ride around his estate - See more at: http://www.devon.gov.uk/walk42#sthash.t1FEwfaF.dpuf
old carriage drive to its advantage.  It was built in the 1800s for the Lord of the Manor at Noss Mayo, Edward Baring of the banking family who became Lord Revelstoke.  Its building provided winter employment for local fishermen and, when completed, allowed Lord Revelstoke to take distinguished guests on a superbly panoramic carriage ride around his estate - See more at: http://www.devon.gov.uk/walk42#sthash.t1FEwfaF.dpuf


The far side of the estuary looks encouragingly flat and green for tomorrow's next leg.


The final section followed a metalled track along the estuary then into Newton Creek, now with rain again, passing the ferry point and into Noss Mayo where we had left the car. We had had a quick drink in the excellent Ship pub this morning, where the barmaid kindly summoned a taxi for us and we had been struck by a general air of poshness. Glimpsing the yachts moored in the creek helped to confirm our impression.


As we approached Noss Mayo, which is down its own little creek, there was a fine view across to Newton Ferrers on the other side of Newton Creek.


We had also wondered about the name, Noss Mayo. Some Irish connection? Something gastronomic? It seems to be a corruption: Wikipedia reveals that it was recorded in1286 as Nesse Matheu, when the manor was held by Matheu son of John. I suppose that helps a bit.

Conditions: hazy cloud and intermittent rain, but warm.

Distance: somewhat over 9 miles, of which 8.8 were on the coast path.

Map: OL 20 South Devon.

Rating: Four stars.

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