Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door

Lulworth Cove

My friend John was visiting and we decided that he should see something of the coast around Lulworth. We parked in the main car park and headed off down towards the cove, noting a sign that indicated that the paths across the Army range were open.

When we reached the Cove, which was pleasantly unpopulated in the coolish air, we decided to take the high path up above the cove. After a steep climb you are rewarded with an excellent view, which allows a much clearer sense of the cove’s shape than is possible from ground level.

At the far side, you descend by a long staircase.

We headed east and were a bit shocked to find that the gate to the ranges locked and a large red flag was flying. Lesson for the future: pay more attention to the flags than to the signs. We turned and retraced our steps to the cove, which this time we crossed at sea level, although the round stones were as heavy going as the climb and descent.

Now we decided to head west. We walked inland a little and took a path past Hanbury Farm which climbed steadily across grassland towards the Newlands Farm campsite, with Hanbury Tout (134m) between us and the sea. We thought this must be a very healthy campsite if you could only reach it on foot. Of course, when we got there this naive hope was dashed as we saw a stream of camper vans heading along the road access to the site, which also had caravans and holiday chalets.

John was frothing at the mouth at the desecration of the landscape and we hurried past. We descended to the entrance to a long curving valley, the splendidly named Scratchy Bottom. The photo captures the curve and the different shades and textures of green quite well.

We then climbed up the other side and walked along a grassy ridge overlooking the bottom below. We followed this to reach the coast at Swyre Head. This is deeply confusing, as there is another Swyre Head, just back from the coast a few miles to the east. This other, better known, Swyre Head is, at 203m, heralded as the highest point on the Jurassic coast. I climbed up it in January on a walk from Kingston.

To the right, there was a fine view of the Bat’s Hole, a natural arch in the chalk cliff.

We now began the walk back to Lulworth and soon had a fine view along the coast towards Durdle Door and beyond.

Durdle Door itself is undeniably impressive.

And a bit beyond it, you can see the continuation of the Portland stone ridge, of which Durdle Door is part, out in the sea, while the much softer chalk cliffs have eroded far back from their one-time extent.

Soon we descended the long paved path (here seen from the east) back to the Lulworth car park.

Conditions: the air was cool, but it was quite warm once you got going.

Distance: about 6 miles.

Map: Explorer OL15 (Purbeck and South Dorset).

Rating: four stars.